Underwear for all: How one alum put inclusivity at the heart of their startup
Jaymin Luces-Mendes wants you to know they don���t care about fashion.
���The idea of made the most sense because fashion started to do unisex clothing as a trend, but it wasn���t truly unisex, it was just baggy clothes on women,��� say Luces-Mendes (Entrepreneurship ���15). ���Initially, it was going to be a clothing brand, but underwear was simpler. I was also physically uncomfortable in my underwear.���
Although founded in 2015, Toni Marlow launched in late 2016. Described as an undergarment brand for people who menstruate, Toni Marlow undergrarments serve the needs of gender non-conforming LGBTQ+ folks. ���That first year and a half was all about finding the language���who we are for and what we are doing,��� they recall.
���Fashion was never the initial idea, I was interested in business,��� answers Luces-Mendes, when asked about choosing entrepreneurship over a more traditional route for someone who starts a brand, such as fashion design. ���Entrepreneurship is my joy.���
Mid-semester in their first year at 91心頭利 (formerly Ryerson University), Luces-Mendes switched from a Bachelor of Arts into Ted Rogers School of Management���s Entrepreneurship program. ���I struggled in school because I had undiagnosed ADHD, but I also loved the structure,��� they add, ���I did night school courses in math to be able to get into a business [program].���
It wasn���t just the coursework that gave Luces-Mendes the tools to start their journey with Toni Marlow; working in the Office of the Vice-President, Research and Innovation ���fostered��� their entrepreneurial spirit. Luces-Mendes also credits resources available to students and alumni interested in starting their own ventures���Toni Marlow is an alumni of the Fashion Zone, one of Toronto Met���s 10 zones that incubate companies in different sectors. Their involvement with Zone Learning included the , where Luces-Mendes was supported through their with tailored programming and events for Black-owned businesses.
Initially, Toni Marlow���s target customer was an individual assigned female at birth, between 18-45 years of age and menstruating. Jaymin-Luces recalls a shift somewhere around 2018, when cisgender folks who were hesitant became more open. ���When we first started in 2015, there were no other companies doing what we did in Canada, but [since then] the industry has accepted they need to be more inclusive. There was a shift in social awareness and tolerance, it was exciting seeing some of my assumptions be disproven.���
Fashion���s treatment of androgyny as a trend looking for garments to feel comfortable in. For the aesthetics-driven and risk-averse fashion industry, it used to be more convenient to ignore consumer needs when designing unisex clothing. Truly unisex clothing de-emphasizes gender in favour of garments that work for multiple body types.
���What I���m noticing is that with so many newer players in the game, a lot of are copying what they see and putting a new twist on it. The majority of folks are not doing anything unique with their product design,��� explains Luces-Mendes, who notes Toni Marlow���s consumer need-driven design and fabrication.
Community is at the heart of Toni Marlow, including its efforts to support suicide prevention in the LGBTQ+ community, which . ���Since the day we launched, we have donated a dollar per product sold to suicide prevention at ,��� they said, decribing the necessary work the charity does in providing counselling, housing and social services for queer youth.
���Quality and community input are the top,��� they point out, when asked what differentiates Toni Marlow. ���Our products are made directly from the feedback of the customers we serve. I will wait or pay a little more if we have to because our community deserves quality.���
When asked about next steps for a growing fashion startup, Luces-Mendes goes back to their purpose. ���It was always about increased visibility and access,��� pausing as they envision their ideal scenario. ���It���s like back-to-school, everyone in the family should be able to get their underwear at the mall.���